Nestled along the cliff-strewn coast of the Wild Atlantic Way, Ballycastle, Co. Mayo, is a place I lovingly call a village of 'two ends and no middle'.
In my always-sunny childhood memories of the early 1990s, it was a place bustling with summer festivals, portable BBQs in windy sand dunes, fairy forts to be avoided at all costs, and sweet shops bursting with tenpenny bags (that actually cost 10p).
Looking back further, to the 1960s and 70s, I've heard tales of a bustling main street chock full of thriving local business, not to mention a booming social life, with neighbouring towns visiting on weekends to pack the dancehall.
Over the years, like so many small villages in rural Ireland, things began to quieten down, with younger generations leaving en masse to pursue careers and adventures further afield, leading many business owners to close their doors
Today, the small street of shop keepers, artists, publicans and sports enthusiasts are making a concerted effort to jump start the potential of one of Ireland's most scenic spots.
From horsebox coffee spots offering delicious treats and incredible views by the Céide Fields, to glamping in wooden pods looking out at Downpatrick Head, these are just a handful of places to explore during your next visit to North Mayo.
1. Céide Fields
Situated between Belderrig and Ballycastle, the Céide Fields are a historic must-see along the Wild Atlantic Way. The most extensive Stone Age Monument in the world, the site features a system of fields, dwelling areas, and megalithic tombs dating back 6,000 years - all preserved beneath wild blanket bog.
Following a trip to the state of the art visitors centre, you can head up to the viewing platform which offers spectacular views atop 365 foot high cliffs.
Finish your visit on a sweet note by walking across the road to Coast Coffee for a delicious treat by one of Ireland's most jaw-dropping views, which include the Staggs of Broadhaven to the west and Dún Briste to the east.
2. Downpatrick Head & Dún Briste
A hot spot for travel influencers and RedBull athletes alike, you'll likely recognise this spectacular piece of nature from Instagram.
Dún Briste (The Broken Fort) is a sea stack that is reported to have separated from the mainland in 1393 as a result of high seas. However, if you're to believe the children's stories that can be found on-site, this also may have come about due to Saint Patrick's magical wrath against the snakes, a sleeping giant, or a pagan Chieftan called Cromduff.
Downpatrick Head is also home to a statue of Saint Patrick, a blowhole that tourists can peer down onto from a viewpoint, a lookout post from World War II, and a stone aerial marker that reads ÉIRE 64. On a clear day, those with eagle eyes may be able also spot the Stags of Broadhaven.
Visitors can (with appropriate caution) bounce across the earthy marsh to take in the incredible sights and sounds of this windswept wonder as well as the various birds that inhabit it. Birdwatchers will have the chance to spot a variety of Gulls Kittiwake, Small Black Guillemot, and the Cormorant.
3. Local treats
Found at the bottom of the main street in Ballycastle, June's Café offers up cosy décor, local fare, and the most delicious chocolate brownie your heart could desire.
Relatively new to the area, the café is run by Louise (June was her nan), who has an impressive menu filled to the brim with soups, sandwiches, quiches, salads, and hearty breakfast dishes as well as a heap of irresistible baked goods.
The comfortable cottage also offers jars of local honey and jams as well as drawings from a English-born, Mayo-based artist called Martyn who has taken to doodling local treasures.
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4. Glamping
If you want to sleep by the sea, look no further than Ceide Glamping. These self-catered luxury pods include a double bed, a kitted out kitchenette, a sitting area with a smart TV, and an en-suite bathroom for optimal comfort.
If you want to spend your days in the water, you're in luck as the pods are situated a mere 500m from Killerduff Pier, which is perfect for swimming, surfing, kayaking, scuba diving, snorkeling and fishing.
If you're blessed with good weather, you can end your fun-filled day by taking advantage of the barbecueing facilities and picnic benches before taking in incredible views of the sun set.
5. Wild swimming
As a coastal village, Ballycastle boasts a wide variety of stunning swim spots. From its own local beach - aptly located at the end of sea road - to nearby Lacken Strand, Ross beach, Belderrig's rock pool, and Belmullet tidal pool, there are plenty of beautiful dips to be enjoyed. Just be sure to pack a flask of tea to warm up after!
6. Standing stones and sculpture trails
For those with an interest in Irish history and folklore, rural Mayo is a treasure trove of standing stones, fairy forts, stone circles, mermaid tales and court tombs. In fact, the Standing Stone in Doonfeeney cemetery dates back to the 5th century and is the second highest in Ireland.
Not only that, but Ballycastle sits along the Tír Sáile sculpture trail - the largest public arts trail ever undertaken in Ireland. Beginning in nearby Killala, the rocky trail follows the coastal route through Ballycastle, Belderrig, Belmullet and down to Blacksod.
Once you're done exploring, you can get a taste of the town by taking up a workshop in the Ballinglen Arts Foundation, dropping into Healy's pub for a spot of live music, or strolling up to the community hall for a night of Monster Bingo.
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7. Stella Maris Hotel
Built in mid-1800, the Stella Maris was first constructed as a Coast Guard Headquarters by the British - one of several British Admiralty buildings which dotted the coast of Ireland. History buffs will note the gun turrets (small holes cut out of hand-carved stone) still found at Bunatrahir Bay to this day.
Circa 1916, the fortress was taken over by the Sisters of Mercy, who named the building appropriately Stella Maris, which is Latin for 'Star of the Sea'. This went on until the 1960s, when the venue became a hotel, well-known for hosting baptisms, weddings and birthday lunches for locals.
In 2023, the hotel was bought by new owners who promise to blend "the charm of a bygone era with modern amenities". As well as offering overnight accommodation, they will be hosting a range of events, as well as the chance to enjoy some coffee and cake in the beautiful conservatory by sea.
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Happy travels.
